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Text by Martha Cheng
Images by Anthony Wyborny
In 2011, Ben Jacobsen, founder of Jacobsen Salt Co., tested saltwater at more than 30 spots along the Pacific Northwest coast, looking to source the best water. He discovered the highest salinity in samples from Netarts Bay, where a long strip of land shelters the bay and commercial oyster farming operations help clean the water, and set up shop. The water is filtered and then boiled to remove calcium and magnesium. The resulting salt, pure-white and square, tastes of clean brine. After the water evaporates, workers at Jacobsen Salt Co. scoop out the remaining crystals and dry them in pans for up to 36 hours. In addition to pure finishing salts, some salts are also infused with flavors including black truffles from Oregon, pinot noir, and ghost chili pepper. Its shop also carries Bee Local honey, a brand that offers single-origin honey from around Oregon that joined Jacobsen Salt Co. in 2015. Its honey from Willamette Valley has a rare depth, with a citrus-like brightness and caramel undertone, and its cherrywood-smoked honey, thick and dark, is like the Scotch of honeys.
“It’s astonishing to see some of the resulting flakes that are the size of postage stamps and made up of concentric squares that rise to form a squat pyramid,” says writer Martha Cheng, who visited the salt company’s coastal operation. “I’ve never marveled so long at salt.”